This itinerary for a week in Ireland takes you all around the south of the island. Hire a car in Dublin and drive along wild coastlines, through pretty pastel villages and among the greenery of Killarney.
This itinerary is quite fast-paced. I’m aware that not everyone has unlimited time to travel, and many people (me included) want to pack a lot into a short space of time!
Driving in Ireland
First, just a word on driving in Ireland.
In Ireland you drive on the left. Ireland has a motorway network but its smaller roads can be narrow and twisty. If you’re used to driving on big roads on the right, bear in mind that it might take longer to get around by car in Ireland than you might think.
I would say driving in Ireland is most similar to driving in the UK or New Zealand.
So with that practical advice out of the way, let’s start out on our week in Ireland!
Day 1: arrive in Dublin
Arrive in Dublin on day 1 of your week in Ireland. I travelled from London to Dublin by train and boat (which I highly recommend) but Dublin has an airport so you can fly there too.
Your main task for today is to collect your hire car. You might want to pick it up from the airport but there are also car hire outlets in central Dublin.
Wander around Dublin for the rest of the day (you’ll get another chance to see Dublin on days 6 and 7).
Then, in the evening, find an Irish pub with live music to get into the spirit of Ireland. Irish music is one of my favourite genres – it has such a bright energy! Go and see the Temple Bar area briefly but this is likely to be crowded with tourists. Find a pub down a side street and you’re much more likely to get a table.
Day 2: Dublin to Waterford
Get up bright and early and set off on your Ireland road trip! Today you’ll drive from Dublin to Waterford down the east coast, a distance of about 125 miles (200 kilometres).
As you travel through the outskirts of Dublin and then beyond, you reach an archetype of Irish countryside. I did this trip in March/April and, although the weather was changeable, deep yellow gorse lined the narrow roads, giving a warm glow to the spring morning.
As you reach the coast, the roads narrow further and you’ll find yourself driving right beside the sea.
Stop at Bray and walk along the promenade. Take a break from the strong sea wind in one of Bray’s beachfront cafés.
Continue along the coast to Waterford, famous for Waterford crystal, and stay in or around Waterford overnight.
Day 3: Waterford to Killarney via Blarney Castle
The distance from Waterford to Killarney, including a stop at Blarney Castle, is about 130 miles (215 kilometres).
Blarney Castle is just outside Cork, so it’s about 80 miles (130 kilometres) from Waterford. It’s a crumbling castle previously inhabited by the MacCarthy dynasty before being captured by the Williamites (Irish followers of William III).
Blarney Castle is best known for the Blarney Stone which, if you kiss by hanging upside down over a missing brick in the castle wall, you get the gift of the gab… what does this mean? Essentially, it’s an old wives’ tale that kissing the stone takes away your shyness and gives you the ability to talk to anyone and everyone.
Kissing the Blarney Stone is a bit of a tourist trap in my opinion. I’m always wary of sights or activities that come with their own photographer whose photos you can purchase for a high price later in the gift shop. But it’s entertaining watching other people kissing the Blarney Stone whilst you walk around the castle’s windy battlements.
Blarney Castle also has some gorgeous gardens. I went in spring and all the blossom and flowers were out. Stick around at Blarney Castle for a couple of hours and wander around the gardens and castle, then have a cake in the castle café.
After your visit to Blarney Castle, get back on the road and carry on to Killarney.
Day 4: Killarney National Park
Spend day 4 of your week in Ireland exploring Killarney National Park. This is one of my favourite places on this Ireland road trip. It really exemplifies why Ireland is known as the Emerald Isle. Walking through the forest in Killarney National Park you’ll see an extraordinary range of greens, from lurid, damp moss clinging to tree trunks, to rich fir trees forming a green tunnel above you.
Killarney National Park has a huge lough (lake) with a walking path around much of its edge on the Killarney side. Pay a visit to Ross Castle and marvel at the timelessness of the view from the castle across the lake.
Day 5: drive the Ring of Kerry
The Ring of Kerry is a 179km loop around the Iveragh Peninsula on Ireland’s west coast, starting and finishing in Killarney. The Ring is famous for its beautiful scenery including deep woodland and sweeping cliffs.
It’ll take you a full day to drive the Ring of Kerry. You won’t want to rush as you’ll want time to savour the scenery. I also suggest incorporating the Skellig Ring, an additional 18-kilometre loop on the Ring of Kerry’s western edge. The Skellig Ring had some of my favourite scenery of the whole of the drive.
Check out my full guide to driving the Ring of Kerry which gives more details and suggests some tips to follow for the best experience.
Day 6: Killarney to Dublin
On day 6, drive back to Dublin. This is a long-ish drive, covering 185 miles (300 kilometres). If you’re up and about early, you can stop off in Limerick on your way.
When you get to Dublin, drop the car off and head out for a Murphy’s beer to commemorate the end of your road trip!
Day 7: Dublin
Finish your week in Ireland with a whistle stop tour of Dublin. If you can depart in the evening, that gives you the full day to explore the city!
I’m an avid reader so I love visiting literary locations. Dublin is a UNESCO City of Literature and has many bookshops! My favourite was Books Upstairs which has some of the best brownies I’ve ever eaten.
For more books, you can visit the Book of Kells in the Old Library at Trinity College. You’ll have to book a tour to the Book of Kells in advance – you can’t visit it independently. I was too late to book a Book of Kells tour but I have a feeling it’s a bit of a tourist trap.
Whether or not you see the Book of Kells, Trinity College is a lovely place to wander around. But remember it’s a functioning university, so try not to get in the students’ way!
Dublin also has two cathedrals: St Patrick’s Cathedral and Christ Church Cathedral. Jonathan Swift, the author of Gulliver’s Travels, is buried in St Patrick’s Cathedral.
Before you leave Ireland, make sure you’ve had at least one plate of Irish stew. Ireland has a famously damp climate so a hearty stew will warm you right up.
Have a great week in Ireland!