San Carlos de Bariloche – Bariloche for short – could scarcely be located in a more scenic setting. Perched on the southern edge of a vast lake which glitters a deep blue, surrounded by pine forests and snow-capped mountains, Bariloche would not be out of place in a fairytale land.
In the winter (July to October), Bariloche is one of Argentina’s best ski destinations. During the rest of the year, it is a hub for outdoor activities and scenic drives around the wider area.
Here’s how you can spend a wholesome week in Bariloche, structured however best fits your preferences.
Day 1: arrive in Bariloche
Bariloche has its own airport with numerous daily flights to and from Buenos Aires, and regular flights to and from other cities in Argentina including Mendoza, Córdoba and El Calafate.
If you are arriving in Bariloche by bus, the bus station is at the east end of the town.
When you arrive, wander around the town. If you need to make any last-minute sportswear purchases, you are spoilt for choice of shops. There is also an excellent variety of restaurants. A prominent feature of Bariloche’s culinary scene is its sweet treats. You’ll find chocolate shops everywhere and several delectable ice-cream cafés.
If you are arriving in Bariloche from Buenos Aires or a city to Argentina’s north, you will notice that Bariloche is markedly more expensive, particularly the sportswear. This is not necessarily unexpected – the more remote the area, the more likely the products have to be imported – but it is something to be aware of when budgeting for your trip.
Day 2-3: hiking
Start your week in Bariloche with some hiking. Many people come to Bariloche specifically for its hiking trails and you will not be short of options.
I use AllTrails to explore hikes in the area. This gives you the ability to filter hikes by distance, difficulty, and format (out-and-back, circular or point to point).
- Recommended hikes
Two of the most popular long hikes in the Bariloche area are Cerro López and Refugio Fray. Both start from outside the town so you can either catch the bus to the start or take a taxi. Both trails are strenuous, steep and long but you will be rewarded for your efforts with breathtaking views throughout.
Another option is to combine a hike and a scenic drive at Villa Llao Llao (more on this below).
- Planning your route
The hiking trails are fairly well-marked but it is often useful to download the route on AllTrails just in case. You are unlikely to have signal or internet access along the routes.
On that note, it is worth planning in advance a way to get back to Bariloche after your hike. You may be lucky enough to time your hike with the departure of a public bus. If not, it is worth ensuring that you end your hike in a village or town so that, if necessary, you can use the Wi-Fi in a café or restaurant to order an Uber back to Bariloche.
- What to bring on your hikes
I recommend bringing with you on your hikes
- Walking boots rather than trainers as the trails can be stony, steep and/or snowy
- Warm/waterproof clothing in case of a sudden change in the weather
- Enough water
- Snacks and/or a picnic – any cafés along the way may well be closed
Always check the weather and safety information in advance. And do not be ashamed to turn back if you are not comfortable completing the hike – safety is paramount.
Day 4-5: scenic drives
The next few days of your week in Bariloche will involve some scenic drives. You could drive around the Bariloche area for days and never tire of the views.
- Practicalities
The roads are relatively easy to drive on in Bariloche, bar the occasional unpaved stretch. Argentinians are pretty safe drivers on the whole. Just be aware that they love to use their hazard warning lights for any and all manner of hazard, however (un)perilous!
Hiring a car in Bariloche is straightforward. We hired ours via booking.com but you can also book directly with one of Bariloche’s many car hire companies. You could consider choosing a 4×4 as this would make for a more comfortable journey along the unpaved roads, but this is not essential.
- The Route of the Seven Lakes
The best long drive around Bariloche is the Route of the Seven Lakes. This is exactly what it says on the tin: a scenic drive around seven lakes in the Bariloche area. The whole route takes about seven hours, going northwards from Bariloche on route 237, left onto route 65 (unpaved), northwards at route 40, all the way up to San Martín de los Andes, and then back along route 40 all the way back to Bariloche.
If you want to drive the whole route, you could consider splitting it over two days to take it at a more leisurely pace.
If you would prefer to do a single day of driving, you have the option of cutting out San Martín de los Andes and instead turning south when you reach the end of route 65 to join route 40. This reduces the journey to about four and a half hours.
- Villa Llao Llao – drive, hike or cycle
Another lovely drive is around a peninsula to the west of Bariloche, through Villa Llao Llao and Villa Tacul. This takes you up to some stunning viewpoints over a smaller lake to the south which is home to various island forests surrounded by the ubiquitous snow-topped mountains. There is a hiking area just beyond Villa Llao Llao where you can choose the length of your route, from leisurely strolls, to a three-hour circuit, to summiting Cerro Llao Llao.
If you are looking to add another sport to your Bariloche repertoire, you can hire a bike from Villa Llao Llao and embark on a 20km cycling route around the peninsula. You can choose either a normal or an electric bike. I recommend an electric bike as the route is quite hilly!
- Breweries along the way
Breweries will be a frequent sight along your drives as the Bariloche region produces several beers. Some of the breweries double as bars and are worth a stop if you(r passengers) want a refreshing drink along the way. Alternatively, you can book brewery tours from Bariloche which will mean that the designated driver is not left out of the beer-tasting!
Day 6: kayaking
Day 6 of your week in Bariloche involves one of my favourite water activities: kayaking. There is hardly a better location to dabble in some kayaking than Bariloche. On a still and sunny day, the lakes’ surfaces are glassy and the water is crystal-clear, reflecting all shades of blue around you.
You can hire one- or two-person kayaks for an hour or two and paddle around beside tree-lined islands in the shadow of the mountains.
It is exponentially cheaper to hire kayaks from any place with a makeshift sign advertising them than it is to sign up for a kayaking tour. We paid 4,000 pesos per person per hour (about £3 in November 2024) whereas a kayaking tour can be £50+ per person.
You should not expect state-of-the-art safety information from the lakeside kayaking booths. We were given life jackets but no advice or instructions. That said, kayaking is fairly self-explanatory so as long as you are relatively comfortable in water you should be fine, even if you have never tried kayaking before.
After your kayak, you can sit on the lakeside beach and even swim in the lake. But remember that the lake water is glacial so it can be very cold!
Day 7: depart
Thus concludes your week in Bariloche. Return to the airport or bus station and continue your journey!