I’ll start, as ever, by saying that five days in Malta is not enough to explore the whole country. This itinerary is aimed at anyone looking for a short but busy trip, getting a flavour of the diversity that Malta has to offer.
When to go to Malta
I went to Malta in early November and it was a perfect winter sun break. Although the sea was rather too rough for boat trips or swimming, the weather was warm but not by any means stifling. It was overall very pleasant.
I understand that Malta can get extremely hot in the summer months so I would recommend planning your Malta trip in March to May or September to November.
What to know before going to Malta
Malta may be a small country but it’s absolutely packed with history. I’ve compiled a list of six things I wish I had known before visiting Malta which I hope provides some helpful context to what you’ll see on this itinerary.
Day 1: arrive in Valletta
Let’s get going. On day 1 of your five days in Malta, arrive in Valletta, Malta’s capital. You’ll find sand-coloured walls, warm sea breezes, cats hiding under overhanging plants, crimson post boxes, the scent of grilling meat, vivid orange sunsets… sounds good, right?
We stayed in Sliema which is just across the harbour from Valletta’s main city centre. Spend the afternoon getting your bearings, wandering through Valletta’s twisting alleys and out along the seafront.
In the evening, have a cocktail at the Embassy Valletta Hotel, a smart building with a rooftop bar. Watch the sun tint the church domes orange and, beyond, descend behind the sea.
Day 2: explore Valletta
On day 2, explore what Valletta has to offer. Let’s not forget that the entire city of Valletta is a UNESCO World Heritage Site so you won’t be at a loose end if you’re into artistic or historical sights.
These were some of my favourite things in Valletta.
St John’s Co-Cathedral
St John’s Co-Cathedral is everything you would expect from a European Catholic cathedral: huge, ornate and richly-decorated. It’s named after the Knights of St John, a group which forms a significant part of Malta’s history, having ruled Malta for nearly 300 years until the French conquered it in 1798.
The Knights’ symbol is an eight-pointed cross which you’ll find around the cathedral including on some of the floor tiles. There’s also a Caravaggio painting in the cathedral so this is a must-visit for anyone interested in art.
Bażilika Santwarju tal-Madonna tal-Karmnu
The Bażilika Santwarju tal-Madonna tal-Karmnu, or Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, is a familiar feature of Valletta’s skyline. It has a distinctive oval dome, which isn’t obvious from the outside but is easier to notice from inside.
Upper Barrakka Gardens
Upper Barrakka Gardens is on the main peninsula of Valletta looking across to fingers of land reaching out across the harbour towards you. That’s the wealthy area of Valletta, where you’ll spy all the yachts.
You’ll also find cannons lining the seafront in Upper Barrakka Gardens, a reminder of Malta’s long military history of invasions and sea-battles in its surrounding waters.
Try rabbit for dinner
Rabbit is Malta’s signature dish so it’s almost obligatory to try a rabbit dish when you’re there (sorry vegetarians). In general, I found that Malta’s food was surprisingly heavy for a hot climate. As well as the dark rabbit meat, Maltese people seem to eat lots of pies, pastries and fried food. Another reason not to visit in mid-summer!
Day 3: Comino and Gozo Islands
You’re spending five days in Malta but did you know that only the southern island of the archipelago is actually called Malta? Today you’ll explore Malta’s (the country’s) other two islands: Gozo (north) and Comino (in the middle).
I’ll start with Comino in this itinerary although you can go to Gozo first if you prefer. You can’t go directly from Valletta to Comino, so catch the boat from Valletta to Gozo, then from Gozo to Comino. (You can get directly to Comino from Ċirkewwa on the north of Malta island.)
Comino
Comino is best known as the location of the Blue Lagoon, a quasi-paradise beach with almost-luminous turquoise waters. Importantly, you must book in advance if you want to visit the Blue Lagoon, using this form. This is part of a move to limit daily visitor numbers to the Blue Lagoon to avoid overcrowding and to protect its ecosystem.
My personal view is that the overcrowding and the fact that the Blue Lagoon is so over-discovered means that it’s not all it’s cracked up to be. There’s more to Comino than the Blue Lagoon and I recommend doing a short hike around the edge of the island. You’ll see some strange abandoned buildings from a time when Comino functioned as a quarantine location for soldiers returning from plague-ridden lands. It’s got waters just as blue as the Blue Lagoon round the other side. It’s a nice little walk that you could easily do in an hour and a half.
You don’t need to book your trip to Comino in advance if you’re not stopping at the Blue Lagoon.
Gozo
Hop back on the boat to Gozo, departing from the Blue Lagoon. Some of the boat journeys add a detour through the Santa Marija Caves on the east side of Comino – mine did and I wasn’t expecting it so it was a pleasant surprise!
When you land at Mgarr on Gozo, catch a bus up to the Citadel at Victoria. This is an ancient fortified area, surrounded by sandy-coloured walls ready to defend Gozo from enemies of years ago. Walk through its narrow alleyways and listen to the silence created by its high walls.
When you’re ready, head back to Mgarr to catch the boat back to Valletta. I have to warn you that the sea was pretty choppy for me on this crossing (in November) so bring seasickness tablets if you think you’ll need them!
Day 4: coastline and more ancient citadels
Day 4 is a bit of a miscellaneous day but I’m going to recommend that you use Malta’s bus system to visit a variety of sights around the island. Valletta’s bus station is slightly chaotic but it’s generally clear where buses are departing from and where they’re going.
Mdina
First top Mdina. Mdina is another fortified city contained within thick walls. Although it has a tiny population of only 250, Mdina is still a functioning city with its own political candidates.
Mdina is full of churches, chapels and palaces. I’d suggest picking a few and focusing on those, depending on your interests. The main religious building is St Paul’s Cathedral, founded in the twelfth century and rebuilt after an earthquake in the seventeenth. This is another beautifully ornate space, with detailed frescoes painted on the walls.
Blue Grotto
Once you’ve seen all that you want to see in Mdina, hop back on the bus and head south to the Blue Grotto. This is a series of sea caves where a stunning blue sea washes in and out.
Now, we had planned to do a boat trip to the Blue Grotto but unfortunately all boat trips were cancelled that day as the sea was too rough. This is something to bear in mind when considering what time of year to visit Malta. November is just a little too late in the season to do very many sea-based activities.
St Peter’s Pool
After the Blue Grotto, take the bus to Marsaxlokk. You will probably need to change buses at the airport so this leg of the journey is a bit of a faff. But it’s definitely worth it!
First, Marsaxlokk is a lovely fishing village with restaurants and cafes lining the seafront. This is an idea stop for a meal or a snack.
Afterwards, walk about 40 minutes to St Peter’s Pool. You’ll feel like you’re walking into the middle of nowhere as you go through fairly desolate farmland. But you’ll soon emerge at a rocky area surrounding a natural green pool. You can swim here and also walk further around the coast to admire more of Malta’s lovely sea views.
At the end of the day, walk back to Marsaxlokk and catch the bus back to Valletta.
Day 5: depart Valletta
Say goodbye to Malta as you depart from Valletta.
Returning to Malta
As I’ve said above, five days in Malta is only enough to scratch the surface of this diverse country. Malta surprised me in lots of ways, not least in its mixture of cultural heritage. I’m definitely planning a return trip!
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