Anyone planning a trip to Malta will probably have seen photos of the Blue Lagoon on Comino Island: clean, vivid, turquoise water, veritably a mini tropical paradise. But Comino Island is more than just the Blue Lagoon, and I’m going to express the unpopular opinion that you might want to skip the Lagoon altogether.
Comino Island’s surprising history
Let’s start with Comino Island’s backstory. Small as it may be, Comino Island has a colourful past. Throughout the centuries, it has been used as a hunting ground, prison, quarantine location and as farmland. It has seen savage shipwrecks on its jagged rocks. It has been stepped upon by Romans, Knights of Malta, pirates, French occupiers, farmhands and now tourists. For such a small place, Comino certainly has a lot of history to offer.
Comino Island today
Aside from the Blue Lagoon (which I’ll come onto shortly), I recommend embarking on a short hike around the perimeter of Comino Island. The path is relatively easy to follow and is very much a path rather than a road. It’s a nice way to see a snapshot of the island’s history as well as some scenic views.
On your way round, look out for these landmarks.
Chapel of Our Lady’s Return from Egypt
This small chapel dates from the early sixteenth century. If it’s open, step into its cool interior for a few minutes of shade.
Ġebel Comino
On the eastern side of Comino Island is a rugged path up to the edge of a rocky cliff. Peer down to speckled blue water, almost luminous in how clear and bright it is. In these shady coves you might see a boat or two, their lucky sailors diving over the side into the alluring sea.
Santa Marija Battery
Carry on along the path and you’ll reach a cluster of buildings. Pass through the old pig farm to Santa Marija Battery. This is a military building that was built by the Knights of St John in the early eighteenth century to fortify Malta. It’s no longer in use but you can sense the vicious sea battles it has seen over the years.
Isolation Hospital
Near the Santa Marija Battery is the remains of the Isolation Hospital. This was constructed in the nineteenth century during the British occupation of Malta as a location for soldiers to quarantine after returning to Malta from plague-affected lands in the Levant. The Isolation Hospital has that eerie feeling of many abandoned buildings, with the connection to long-gone disease adding to the creepiness.
Back to the Blue Lagoon
Complete the loop and finish at the Blue Lagoon where you can catch the return boat back to Gozo.
The return boat
Before I give my thoughts on the Blue Lagoon, here are just a few words about the return boat to Gozo. If you pay a small extra fee, you’ll be able to board a boat which takes a short detour round to the other side of Comino Island through some caves over some of the bluest water I have ever seen.
I have to say this extra detour was a very pleasant surprise to me. I’m not sure if I had actually paid as I definitely didn’t specifically book it! Being on a small speedboat, it was lovely to be so near such a blue sea.
The Blue Lagoon: Instagram vs reality
Now, the Blue Lagoon.
The Blue Lagoon is arguably Malta’s most famous spot. Certainly the enticing colour of the sea is an understandable draw.
But my impression of the Blue Lagoon was quite underwhelming. Tempting as the water looked, that was about all that could have made me stay at the Blue Lagoon for longer than strictly necessary. Reader, Instagram has you tricked.
I went to Malta in November. Whilst it was certainly balmy compared to the UK where I had come from, it was not really warm enough for swimming. However, that did not stop the crowds’ determination to get those Instagram shots. They stood waist-deep in the aquamarine water, sunglasses on despite the low clouds, sipping from straws wedged into hollowed-out pineapples. I’m sure the final photos made them look as though they were in a tropical paradise having a brilliant time. The photos will not, though, have captured the chilly edge to the sea breeze, or the sickly smell of discarded pineapples wafting from the nearby bins, or the repetitive bassline pumping from oversized speakers in the fried-food vans on the rocky shore.
Fortunately I had not come to Comino for the Blue Lagoon. I had already decided it was not warm enough for swimming. This meant that I did not suffer any disappointment when I came upon the Blue Lagoon and discovered that it looked much better on Instagram that it did in real life. I hate to say it but my prevailing feeling was one of smugness.
To cut a long point short, just be aware that the Blue Lagoon in real life might not be all it’s cracked up to be on social media. Set your expectations accordingly.
Daily visitor cap on the Blue Lagoon
Although the Blue Lagoon was not too crowded in November, I have heard that it can be unbearably so during the summer.
As a result, since 1 May 2025 a limit has been imposed on the number of visitors to the Blue Lagoon per day to avoid overcrowding and to preserve the ecosystem in the lagoon. You now have to book your trip in advance using this form, which will give you a QR code for your landing pass. It’s free, but no doubt gets booked up very quickly.
According to the FAQs on the Blue Lagoon’s website, you don’t have to book a landing pass if you don’t plan to stop at the Blue Lagoon. Frankly I recommend this. Beautiful as the water is at the Blue Lagoon, for me it’s spoilt by the sheer number of people who flock there, each trying to snap exactly the same photos. Just walk round to the other side of the island and you’ll see water almost as beautiful with a fraction of the number of people there.
Is Comino Island worth visiting?
Comino Island is certainly worth visiting. It’s packed with a surprising amount of history for such a small place and is a prime spot for a scenic hike.
The Blue Lagoon is undeniably the island’s main draw – it didn’t appeal to me personally as it just seemed like a tourist trap, but by all means spend a little bit of time there (having booked in advance of course). I would just recommend that you explore more of what Comino Island has to offer than just the Blue Lagoon.
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